As for today, the three of us are just outside Peje, in our first hotel in a while, soon to begin our two to three day journey across and out of Kosovo. Sadly, even Kosovo’s neighbors are cautious about safety here, but with more pity and sympathy for their former Yugoslav neighbors than fear. So far the region, resting in a much-anticipated valley between Montenegro and the mountains of Serbia and Bulgaria, seems more or less similar to the countryside of Montenegro. All the same, we won’t be dawdling here long.

Lukas has stayed with us, helping immensely in securing safe and kind places to sleep. We’ve slept in a Montenegrin monastery, in the woods of a ski resort and spa (with their permission) beside two new German friends (hello Julius and Katrin!), in the yard of a Montenegrin formerly of Australia, etc.

He also told us of a group of cycling activists called Ecotopia Bike Tour, organized by Viennese students and comprising members from around Europe and beyond, who cycle each summer and also the way work on environmental and political projects. They should be arriving in Kosovo today as well. We’ve been trying to contact them to hang out for a few days- hopefully we’ll catch them here or in Skopje, Macedonia!

So long to the incessant mountain climbs for a few days. I will not miss them much. Except the views- oh, the views!